The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds gather.

It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve grapes on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.

"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of growers who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and allotments throughout the city. It is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

Urban Wine Gardens Around the Globe

To date, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and more than three thousand vines overlooking and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.

"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect open space from construction by establishing permanent, productive agricultural units within urban environments," says the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the soils the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Polish Variety

Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to attack once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy grapes from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

The other members of the collective are also making the most of bright periods between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of vintage from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I love the smell of these vines. It is so reminiscent," she says, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on holiday."

The humanitarian worker, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of making vintage."

"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."

Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."

"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Erin Howell
Erin Howell

Elara Vance is a legacy strategist and author focused on intergenerational wealth and family business continuity.